Fall Blush (Deer & Doe Luzerne Trench)

Before I get into this coat–I want to admit right off the bat that I totally copied the Deer and Doe sample. I\’m a serial vintage-pattern-illustration-copier, and it appears that my affliction has morphed into practically stealing the clothes off the models. Since Camille and I share similar measurements, it\’s even worse! This is basically the exact. same. trench.

The fabric I used (as did Deer & Doe, haha) is a Robert Kaufmann Ventana Twill and it is absolutely perfect for this application! Also, they have this twill in 66 different colors, including hot pink, the prettiest pale yellow (\”powder lemon\”), a beautiful deep green, and even multiple shades of khaki/stone/beige for you traditionalists. (Plus, a prepared for dying white if you can\’t find what you are looking for, but again, there are 66 colors. 66.) It was easy to work with and lightweight enough that multiple layers were a breeze, while holding it\’s shape perfectly in this unlined, mostly-uninterfaced coat.

This is a 36 bodice and a 40 skirt, which I cobbled together by deepening the pleats in the skirt. As long as the skirt pleats line up with the princess seams on the bodice, you can swap out whatever size you want! If I make this pattern again, I\’ll probably size up one in the bodice; the 36 fits but there\’s no room for a sweater under there, if you truly want a fall/early winter coat! It\’s also worth noting that this is a very hourglass-shaped pattern: the 36 is designed for a 33\” bust, which I do have, and a 25 1/4\” waist, which I definitely do not. Although I do already have two other trenches (a neutral burda one and a rtw one in leopard print) I actually do see myself making another version of this in one of those traditional trench colors… it\’s such a flattering shape (much more so than my burda, which is swingier) and I\’d love to draft a gun flap add-on for a extra traditional touch.

Although my year round love of pink is well-documented on this blog, this coat will be equally appropriate in spring. In fact this was really supposed to be a spring project, but I kept putting it off for one reason: I was scared to make the bound buttonholes! As (almost) always happens, that was really silly of me, and the buttonholes ended up being a breeze using the pattern instructions. I\’ve added a new skill to my work box and I could even imagine myself adding bound buttonholes to patterns that don\’t call for them in the future… maybe. They add such a luxe touch to this project–and no. one. will think you made it yourself!

Honestly, I have nothing but praises for this whole project. If you followed my construction of this coat over on Instagram stories, you\’ll already know that I absolutely loved loved loved putting this trench together; Deer and Doe\’s drafting is flawless, the fit is wonderful, the instructions are comprehensive, and the ventana twill was the exact right choice for the project. I\’m gushing, I know, but I loved this project–both the process and the result–and this is officially one of my favorite things I\’ve ever made. I think it will get lots and lots of wear, and I can\’t wait to make another (maybe next spring?) in another color. If you\’ve been waffling on this pattern, totally get it, and if you have it but don\’t know what fabric you should make it with… now you know!

One last note: my pretty Liberty bias tape was my souvenir from my recent trip to France, purchased at La Droguerie in Strasbourg. Such a pretty little shop, and they have a whole book case full of yards and yards of pretty tape biais and piping! Do you buy fabric or notions or patterns on vacation? Or just me?

xoxo,

allie