the 50s Day Dress, Part 3 (McCall’s 6969)

This may be the blog post the absolute longest time coming–topping even my recent post about the year old Wiksten Jacket!! The 50s day dress parts 1 and 2 were written in….. 2013!!!!!

 

Way back when I started this blog, one of my sewing goals was to find an easy to make, easy to wear 1950s style day dress. As I put it back then: “You know the one: jewel neckline, fitted bodice (pointy bra optional), sleeveless or short or three quarter length sleeves, and a gorgeous swishy skirt.” ANYWAY I found McCall’s 6969 on etsy or something and made one out of charcoal grey flannel, of all things, and it was (unsurprisingly) not all that cute. I refer to it as my “Amish dress” is one of those blog posts, but I, at some point, deleted or reverted to draft the blog post that has details about it. (It didn’t have any pictures anyway so I’m not going to link to it or anything.) I do remember that I did do a small bust adjustment–but not a real one!! I (somehow) just removed one set of darts..? I’m not sure.

I eventually cut the dress into two pieces and had a perfectly wearable little peplum top (despite whatever was going on with the bust dart situation) and full skirt, which I wore surprisingly often in cold weather. Then I made THEE Simplicity 2444 dress (did you forget about this iconic dress of the early sewing blogosphere?? only OGs know lol) and eventually, I discovered Simplicity 4475, and that has been my go-to dress with this silhouette–I’ve made it a dozen times and think of it by default whenever I find a cute cotton print. McCall’s 6969 was relegated to my stash, but did survive several purges such that I could pull it back out now. I made a quick bodice muslin and, in homage to this return to 2013, promptly ordered a 60s floral bedsheet with which to make a wearable muslin. And here we are.

What a preamble!

 

I don’t know how helpful fit adjustments are when we’re talking about a pattern that has been out of print for half a century, but for my own notes: this is a 12 T pattern, which is the usual 32″ bust, same as a 12 misses pattern. According to this chart (from a different year and company) that could mean that it is drafted for a slightly shorter body than a misses pattern. I lowered the bust darts 1 1/2″, sewed the neckline with a 1″ seam allowance, and gave myself a little bit of extra wiggle room in the waist, about 1″ total. The only drawback about this pattern versus my go-to 4475 are the set-in sleeves; raglan sleeves are so much easier to sew! I didn’t get a completely smooth shoulder insertion here, but it is good enough.

 

2013 Allie would have been so. excited. about this dress. And I am excited about it in 2021 too! I’m happy to have another pattern for this silhouette. I love love love my Simplicity 4475 dresses: they are easy to wear–comfortable and no coordinating!–so I want to wear this a bunch to evaluate the fit, especially through the sleeve/shoulder. It seems comfy enough so far, but will it live up to the comfort of raglan sleeves? We shall see!

 

xoxo,

allie